Chris Gravett

Today, 11^th February, we’ve spent exploring little Puhoi a bit more and learning its history (more later) and we took a short drive out to Mahurangi national park and then down to Orewa. Puhoi is actually closer to the SH1 than I said previously, it’s only just over a kilometre which makes the seclusion all the more remarkable. The national park can be accessed via a road about 3km north and then it’s about ten kilometres to get to the Mahurangi west entrance. There are only two vehicle accesses to the park the other being 16km south. All other access is via boat. The park is quite massive with picturesque walks, sea views and beaches and it seems precious few people. We spent a couple of hours walking a loop there, it was great if a bit steep in places.Mahurangi West

Mahurangi West

Leaving Mahurangi we drove a few miles south, avoiding the toll road which starts close to the Puhoi Road, through Waiwera to Orewa. Orewa is a seaside town consisting primarily of restaurants and bars along with a lovely sandy beach which slopes gently giving a lot of shallow sea for paddling etc. There are so, so many beaches on North island it is difficult to take in, there are thousands and most seem deserted, or they are so big the people using them are dwarfed. So we spent a couple of hours there, it was bustling compared with Puhoi but in reality quiet and we had a long walk on the beach with few other people.

On returning to Puhoi we visited the tiny museum and of course had an obligatory visit to the Puhoi pub.Puhoi Church

Puhoi was founded in 1860 by a Captain Krippner, who retired from the Austrian cavalry and emigrated with his family to New Zealand. James Krippner came from German speaking Bohemia (now the Czech Republic). In 1863 he sent for more Bohemians to come and settle here. It was a 110 day journey by sea for them. They had no idea how difficult farming would be in New Zealand compared with their homeland. Over the following years two more groups of Bohemians came to Puhoi, by 1872 200 had emigrated here. The story of how the community developed, how they enhanced forestry skills is all quite fascinating and the history is evidenced in all the buildings here many of which have hardly changed over the years. In the Puhoi Pub there are massive two man saws on the walls which were used to fell the giant kauri trees the trunks of which were transported by oxen and some fascinating contraptions for hauling the timber.

The population today is only 450 so it hasn’t grown a great deal, if you remove motor transport and of course some of the newer designed buildings it is not difficult to imagine how it was back around 1900.

We only came here by accident I was looking for a Bach to stay in after Coopers beach and before we go to Waiheke island (on Thursday) I came across Puhoi Cosy Cottage which seemed ideal for two and far enough from Auckland city but until we got here I had no idea what a charming little find it would be.Outside bath - the cottage had a shower in the bathroom but the bath is outside! the second time we have had such a feature on our travels.

So tomorrow is our last day here, we may go to Waiwera and checkout the cheese store (they make a lot of cheese there apparently) here in Puhoi and no doubt the pub.

The following day we did indeed head for Waiwera, after checking out the Sugarloaf as a potential lunch spot (it appeared to be a cross between a night club and a pool hall so we gave it a tentative tick) we headed back to visit the Wenderholm Regional Park that we had passed on the way. It turned out to be better than we expected so we stayed for some time. It is a massive country park with numerous beaches and country walks. It was popular and clearly is a favourite place for BBQs. There are many brick built BBQs, well spaced out as the park is simply so big. Unfortunately the BBQs are all taped off with warnings from the fire service. There is a total fire ban here at the moment, after over two months without rain the whole area feels like a tinderbox and with so many massive eucalyptus trees the area would be like Australia was recently if fire broke out. Never the less there were a lot of people around (for New Zealand) and one or two school trips. Having spent much of the day there we headed back to Waiwera to sample the beer and food at the Sugarloaf. It was indeed an odd place but the beer and food was good. It is situated opposite a spa centre (Waiwera is famous for its hot spa). Chatting to a couple of blokes playing pool (and consuming copious amounts of beer) we discovered the massive spa centre was closed down at the moment, apparently it was purchased with Russian mafia funding and soon after it was purchased it closed down due to investigation into its financial situation. This explained to us why Waiwera in general, and the large establishment opposite the spa, the Sugarloaf were quite quiet. This did mean that before leaving we could have a pleasant walk along yet another near deserted beach.Wenderholm Regional Park

 

 

 

Puhoi (population 450) is situated just north of Auckland and just off of the SH1, for New Zealand a busy road which is under a lot of development but as soon as you turn off the road you are in a sleepy rural area. Within a few kilometres is Puhoi, a hamlet really centred around a ford on the river Puhoi and a grand pub dating back to 1879. The large impressive colonial building , originally called the German Hotel, is now appropriately named the Puhoi Pub and Hotel. It is a proper pub and prospers from day trippers out from Auckland along with construction workers from the tunnelling and road improvements on the SH1.Puhoi Pub

Puhoi from above

Other than the pub Puhoi is really quaint with a little general store, library, community hall and a couple of quaint tea rooms and tiny shops and of course a school. The houses are spread around the surrounding hills, lots of farms etc. Along Krippner road (named after the Bohemian who originally owned all the land on which Puhoi stands), is a small farm where Pete and Debbie have their home and where Puhoi Cosy Cottage also now resides. The cottage is where we are staying.Puhoi Cosy Cottage

Pete and Deb bought the cottage on New Zealand’s equivalent of Ebay in 2008 for $7,500 (£3750). It was built in 1915 and located in Fleet Street, Newton, Auckland. Originally used as the office for The Pelican Club, a whorehouse. It now had to be removed from its site to make way for a parking lot.

Having bought the cottage Pete and Deb had the challenge of transporting it to Puhoi, then when the finally got it on a low loader to their land they discovered that it would not fit up the long, very steep drive. So the cottage was cut in two and transported up the hill to its current site, down the hill from their own house and next to an unusual tin house. It then took nine years of blood sweat and I’m sure some tears for the cottage to be restored to the amazing and unique quirky cottage it is today. We will spend the next few days exploring the area including Orewa, the nearest coastal town.Puhoi Cosy Cottage from drone

Yesterday Puhoi’s small population of 450 increased significantly when there was a days filming here for a new BBC series called Mystique. The general store was closed all day and its signage, along with that of the library opposite changed. From dawn till dusk the place was bustling with everything and everyone that goes with a film production. It was interesting to see and of course the pub did well out of it even if it doesn’t feature in the programme.

Puhoi changes for a day to the film set for BBC series Mystique

 

 

 

Today, Sunday 9^th February, we left Coopers Beach along with Andrew and Debbie. I’ve been upset to leave all of the six places we have stayed so far on this trip but I think most upset to be leaving this area, I love it and there is so much more we could experience here. Only thing for it is we will have to return one day!

We are heading south to a place called Puhoi in North Auckland, a good way north of Auckland (60km or more) in UK distances but not so far for Kiwis. We decided to go south via the West coast as opposed to the more direct SH1 East coast route. This enabled us to take in the Hokianga harbour, which appears to be a lake but is actually the estuary to the Waihou river. We stopped at Opononi and Omapere to admire the views and especially at Arai te Uru where I took some drone photos. We then went down to the Waipoua forest and saw the magnificent Tane Mahuta, a kauri tree some two thousand years old, 51.5m high and with a trunk girth of 13.8m. The trunk volume is estimated at 244.5 cubic metres!! This is the biggest of many massive ancient kauri trees in the forest. The trees are threatened by a disease called kauri dieback – the lengths the conservationists and everyday Kiwis are going to stem the spread of this awful disease is commendable.Tane Mahuna

Tane Mahuna with Marilyn for scale

 

After leaving the forest we said goodbye to our friends for a couple of weeks, we will stay with them at the end of our journey, they headed home to the Bombay Hills and we set off for a cosy 100 year old cottage in Puhoi that once was the office for a brothel in downtown Auckland. More of that in the next instalment

We are now staying near Cooper’s Beach in the Far North. Our Bach is well posh compared with previous ones (although we’ve loved all of them). This one is bigger as we are being joined here for a few days by friends Andrew and Debbie who live south of Auckland. We have no wifi here which is most strange and means I can get on with writing more than I usually get time for.

 

So I’ll go back to Bay of Islands first of all. The drive there from Hamilton was long and tiring, not what we’ve been used to. It is the first time we’ve been north of Auckland. To get to the Russell peninsular there is a 10 minute ferry ride which eliminates a long drive. We were staying a couple of kilometres outside of Russell overlooking a bay from a high bush area. There were lots of houses hidden in the area. The track to ours, Fern Tree Cottage was steep. We missed it first time and ended up at the end of the track where an extrovert looking old chap with a beard and a wide brimmed sun hat was messing about with an outboard motor outside his wood cabin. He looked at us and wandered over, when he spoke he had a German or maybe Scandinavian accent and he spoke slowly. I told him we were looking for Fern Cottage. He scratched hic chin, shook his head and repeated Fern Cottage? He looked back along the track and shook his head and looked back at me. We seemed to have reached an impasse and he didn’t appear too impressed that we were there. He then said, “you see that blue tarpaulin on the right?” “ Fern Cottage is there” “Bab’s place isn’t it?” It was as though his brain was operating in slow motion and his face gave nothing away. He seemed happy now though and so were we!

Babs had left the key in the door of the cottage which was down a really steep drive (we walked down) then a path and steps through bush to a wooden cottage built on many levels in the trees. Going in it was quirky and quaint, had multiple decks and nooks and crannies with seating areas amongst the trees. Also magnificent views down to the bay dotted with yachts. Bab’s then arrived and gave us a tour, she also had a German accent and looked like an ageing hippy. Then from the bush appeared her partner, a portly suntanned gent with a broad hat, off white singlet and sporting some extended hedge clippers which we found he spent ages pruning the various trees in the bush around our houses. He was a well jolly fellow full of anecdotes and irony. He wasn’t German. They made an amazing couple, they told us they had a yacht moored in the bay and also two kayaks and a canoe down on out little beach that we were free to use. Also down on the tiny beach was a hut and a shower. A set of old wooded steps led to the beach down a very steep path.

It is easy when staying in such unusual settings with interesting folk to just stay and chill but at each of our eight stops (well nine now counting Hamilton) there is so much to see, explore and do you have to make the effort to drag yourself away. We only have four or so days at each place and it has become abundantly clear that is nowhere near enough time.

Russell is a nice little town, not as busy as Piahia on the other side (across the ferry), the sea views are incredible, cafes restaurants and bars all good. For the first time on our travels we met quite a few Brits in Russell, youngsters working in the restaurants, others, older who have emigrated here living a bohemian lifestyle without a care in the world and of course there are the yachting set which is really what this area is all about. We met more Brits when we did the Hole in the Rock boat trip. We had a great time chatting with some lads from Dorking who are doing a six month trip covering OZ, NZ and some of Asia. They told us of their journey, by bus, which will cover most of both North and South island in a whistle stop tour. We were able to swap lots of stories and tips. One of them was so envious of the places we were staying in, he said he could wait for the night when he can go into his own room and shut the door after weeks of sleeping six, seven or more in one room, sometimes having to take turns to us the single power point they share!

 

So we’ve now said goodbye to the mixed bag that live and holiday in the beautiful Bay of Islands and moved a couple of hours North to Coopers Beach. Mangonui is the nearest, I suppose you could say town, a kilometre or two away. It has a very popular fish and chip shop which is ‘world famous’ as are so many things I’ve never heard of before that I have come across on this trip. Our friends have arrived to join us so I’m now getting facts about the local; area instead of having to make them up!Mangonui Fish and Chip Shop

View from Mangonui Pa

 

A couple of days ago week took a trip from here in a four wheel drive bus right up to the northern most point of New Zealand where the Pacific Ocean and the Tasman sea meet. It is called Cape Reinga and there is a lighthouse there and although it’s not claimed as such I’m sure it actually is world famous. The journey in total is about 120km, we were due to do part of it along a beach known as 90 mile beach which is actually 57 miles long – still a fair old beach though.Buzz's Bus

The journey up there by road went through predominantly Maori owned land. Our driver, Buzz, was Maori and fiercely proud. He was great and gave us a really informative and passionate insight into Maori culture and tradition and what is happening today. About 30km form here we entered an area where as far as you could see in either direction were avocado plantations. Buzz explained a situation where positive actions/decisions taken can have some unexpected and self defeating results. An example of I’m sure similar situations around the world.

There is and has been a tension between Maoris and the NZ government about returning land to Maori tribes that is rightfully theirs. This is achieved through years of debate negotiation and treaty making. On a positive note more and more government owned land is slowly being returned to its rightful owners. The area we were driving through, which is vast, was such land. Massive swathes of it had some years ago been given back to some local tribes. The term tribe refers to cultural heritage, the people are 21^st century folk not what the imagination might conjure up with the word tribe. Any once title of the lands was restored the owners naturally wish to prosper economically form their ownership. So far so good. Throughout the world there are moves to address climate change and the impact the human race are having on the planet. One currently popular theory is that consumption of meat is a massive contributor to climate change so there is an drive to vegetarian even vegan diets. Personally I have an issue with this as the methane produce through farming can easily be 100% eliminated but currently I haven’t got my point across! So there is now a massive demand globally for the production of vegetarian essential products. Avocado is one such product, its even popular with those on a balanced diet and avocados need a semi tropical environment. There are simply not enough avocado plantations available so while in South America they destroy rain forests to grow avocados here in the Far North New Zealand the Maoris were tempted with untold riches to lease their newly acquired land on long contracts to global avocado producers and they did, thousands of hectares of it. On the face of it all is well, the veggies in Islington get their avocados and fairness is restored to the Maoris. Ironically climate change means there is a lot less rain in the far North that there once was. Avocados require a hell of a lot more water that pasture land or natural bush. So today the avocado plantations, which are still expanding are using up massive amounts of scarce water. According to some this has gone past the point of no return and the whole area could become a barren, uninhabitable desert. Some Maoris, who are descendants of tribes living here for centuries are up in arms and protesting others in the age old tradition can only think of making a buck today. The outcome of all this is of course unclear at present but it showed to me that there are unforeseen consequences of what appear to be fair and positive decisions.

90 Mile Beach

 

Anyway off the politics and world issues and back to travelling round North Island. Having got to Cape Reinga and experienced, and indeed photographed, the awesome views there, learnt about how after death all Maori souls travel to this point to then return to their origin and dwelt on that belief we departed to drive along 90 mile beach. On arrival at the North End of it there are some massive sand dunes. In fact there would be moving sand dunes for miles but parallel with the beach there are 5 or so kilometre deep tree plantations which serve to stop the erosion but at the top point the dunes are allowed to form and move. The massive dunes provide a brilliant environment for dune surfing. So long as your legs and lungs are strong enough to climb the dunes in the first place surfing down is an exhilarating experience, even if occasionally you fall off!I fell off but I went back up again

Cape ReingaCape Reinga

A drive along 90 mile beach is an experience, you see surf casters, torpedo fishing and others enjoying the thrill of driving along a never ending beach. 90 mile beach was so called because in times gone by it was said a horse would travel 30 miles in a day and it took three days to travel end to end along the beach. Well it’s 57 miles long so somewhere along the way someone got things wrong. It is though a great experience and there is far more to see and understand than is immediately obvious.

 

Since then we have spent two days with our friends visiting just a few of the often deserted beaches and bays in this area, Enjoying the local cafes and bars and enjoying chillin in our Bach. As ever we don’t have enough time here, tomorrow we go south to Puhoi. Despite it being at the extreme top of New Zealand I’m sure if we are lucky enough to spend time in NZ again we will make sure this area is on our itinery.

Puheke Beach (drone photo)

Sunset from Cooper's Beach Bach - Bay View Retreat (drone photo)

 

 

Well we are having so much fun and so much to do it’s difficult to fit the blog and photos in!!

 

We are now in Bay of Islands in what is known as Northlands. We’ve been here three days and tomorrow drive two hours further to Coopers Beach in the Far North. We have been staying in a Bach close to Russell. It is a quirky house built on many levels and with multiple doors, its own little beach and has the most brilliant views across the bay. It’s all really about boating and sailing here and the house actually feels like a boat.Sunset View from Fern Cottage

 

This is the area that Captain Cook was the first European to visit NZ. It is also the area of the original capital of the country and also where you find the treaty grounds where the Independence treaty was signed. Next Thursday, 6^th, there is a big festival at the Treaty Grounds commemorating the signing. We may come back down for it.

 

To get here there is a short ferry ride which saves a long and windy route around the coast. Russell is a sweet town, preferable to Piahia across the bay and nearer the Treaty Grounds. It is easy just to idle away the time watching the boats, visiting little beaches etc. but today we took a boat trip around some of the islands and included the ‘world famous’ hole in the rock.

Hole In The Rock

It was a great way to appreciate why it’s known as Bay of Islands and an interesting view of life and nature here.The Russell Ferry runs every 10 minutes each way

 

This morning we walked up Flag Staff which is famous in that when the Waitangi treaty was signed bringing together the Maoris and the British. The story of what transpired with the Flag staff between 1840 and 1857, with one party of the agreement continually breaking their word and cutting the staff down is somewhat like a pre run of Brexit – there are so many similarities. On a positive note ultimately there was a coming together and unity which has now lasted over 150 years.Sailing Ships everywhere here

We move on again tomorrow, just two hours further North, yet again we have no real desire to move on, just like all our previous stays we could do with a few more days. It is becoming clear that thirty seven days is nowhere near long enough!

Russell

 

 

 

31^st January 2020. Today as suggested yesterday it was quite clear this morning so we went back up Mt Teranaki with an objective of photographing with the drone. By the time we got there clouds were swirling around the mountain in what we were told were 75mph gales at the summit. We went to a viewing point near the visitor centre at 1000m and got some drone pics but all had varying amounts of cloud swirling around. I was content though. We went into the centre had a coffee and looked at the literature then noticed out of a door that the mountain was totally clear. We went out the door, past three rangers having a coffee break at some tables to a patch of short grass where I took this shot with my Nikon.Mount Taranaki

 

I then set the drone up and it took off. Within a minute or two one of the rangers came over and announced the use of drones is prohibited in the national park. I quickly took some pics with it, apologised and expressed my ignorance and said it would return to home base immediately. The ranger was a nice guy, he explained the reasons for the ban and we discussed various aspects of the changing use of drones and drone technology. He was totally cool and quite apologetic. When we departed he said thanks for your understanding and I hope you got some good shots! I did but I’ve not downloaded them yet.

 

We left New Plymouth today to drive about 250km to Hamilton for an overnight stay before going up North to Russell tomorrow (about another 500km). The first 150km plus out of New Plymouth was though some magnificent scenery but no towns or villages. That is until you arrive at Mokau. Mokau consists of a motel, a butchers, two cafes, a museum an art gallery and a jail! Along with a few houses. Mokau is on the estuary of a river and is famous for whitebait. Well I say famous, there are a lot of whitebait fishing platforms on the river, the history of whitebait fishing is recorded in detail in the museum and the two cafes and no doubt the motel have endless variations of whitebait on the menu. For such a small place the museum is amazing, it’s as though every ones goods and chattles have been left to the museum for the past couple of centuries. The jail is in effect part of the museum, it is a single cell with a bed and a ball and chain although photos of it in use show a massive steel ring with about eight manacles on it so the cell held more than one prisoner.

Mokau Jail

Today being the 31^st January means it is the day the UK leaves the EU, in fact as we are 13 hours ahead here we will have left in about three hours time. It has been interesting here to get a totally new and different perspective on Brexit.

When we were in Napier I chatted with an elderly busker, brilliant musician, when he realised I was English (I called him ‘mate’ so initially he assumed I was an Aussie) he announced in a loud voice “1973 was such a sad and upsetting time”. 1973 I thought what on earth happened that year? Well we got married is all I could think of but why would that upset and sadden a Kiwi busker? Of course he may not have been a busker then but he can’t have had any sort of desires for Marilyn that I had dashed by our betrothal, could he?

“ We lost our trading agreement with the UK overnight, took us years to recover, in fact we never really have.” He said with a heavy heart. “Hopefully us and the Aussies can agree new trading arrangements when you are out of the common market, we cannot do enough to support you.” Last week in New Plymouth we met a couple who farm at Palmerston North and we heard a similar story. When the UK joined the EC (EU) the dairy industry in NZ crashed and if fact the country only survived because a dispensation was made for frozen NZ lamb to be sold to the UK. Australian famers had the same experience. Although both countries joined Asian trading markets apparently it has never been the same and the pain still runs deep. So in this part of the world Brexit is offering some hope.

After these surprising conversations I though about it. After WW2 the UK encouraged unskilled people without a bright outlook to make a new life in Oz and New Zealand. In fact I remember as a child in the fifties when folk could emigrate (by ship) for just £10 and have an opportunity to totally change their lives and life prospects. Well many did, thousands in fact and many of those who emigrated ended up in the farming industry often developing their own farms from scratch. The business model for this was a trading agreement with the UK. So imagine having worked your socks of for twenty years and established a lifestyle and business from scratch for the ‘Mother country’ to cut the umbilical chord overnight. Wow! I’ve never seen this side of the coin before.

 

On the subject of leaving the EU if you have not seen it already take a look at www.project28.co.uk

 

 

 

It’s been a few days since I posted so I’ll try to get up to date working backwards. It is now evening of 30^th January, (I still find it amazing that means early Thursday morning in UK). We are staying in a studio apartment with an amazing view in Oakura, just outside New Plymouth. New Plymouth is the biggest town by far that we have stayed in/near so far, but having said that it is small by UK standards. When we first went into town it struck me as big and ugly but having been here for three days I have warmed to it as we have got to know it.The view from our studio Oakura

 

Today has been excellent as what had been a couple of days of light rain turned, unexpectedly into blue skies and sunshine dawn till dusk. We have spent most of the day walking the coastal path that runs the length of New Plymouth form the port in the West to way East of the Waiwhakaiho River. The path is 14km long and is smooth concrete or wood decking all the way. It is great for cycling, scooting skateboarding or walking (tramping as the Kiwis call it). Today there was every age group on every conceivable bike or board or feet. The locals thought it was heaving but believe me there would be less people using such a path in Margate in mid winter (in the unlikely event such a facility existed there. So it was pleasant and to us not crowded at all. There were some strong winds for which we were thankful as the sun was hot and strong. The winds brought out the para-surfers who were amazing. New Plymouth and the surrounding area is known as Taranaki thanks to Mount Taranaki (a live volcano although it last erupted in 1755) which is 2518m high and boasts 200km of walking tracks all in the centre of Egmont National Park, today being so clear and with strong winds meant that the whole mountain was visible, an unusual occurrence. Therefore we walked as far as Te Rewa Rewa bridge, a cleverly designed and constructed bridge which forms a sort of twirl that you can look along and see Mt Taranaki through the vortex, luckily as today was so clear I was able to capture photos like this.Te Rewa Rewa Bridge with Mt Taranaki in full view

 

Yesterday was dull and wet (still nice and warm though) we had decided to have a lie in and then as the day was to get clearer take a drive to the 1000m point on Mt Taranaki were numerous walks from 2 or 3 days down to 40 minutes can be taken. Although it was bright at sunny in New Plymouth at 100m it was mostly dense cloud looking up. We did a 90 minute or so walk through mystical forests of lichen and ferns and untouched bush but alas no chance to launch the drone and photograph the mountain. We may give it another go tomorrow morning subject to the weather.

 

Before coming to New Plymouth we were south of the national park near Wanganui on a farm stay for three nights. My big expectations mentioned in the last post did not let me down, we loved it there. Not only was the accommodation, as mentioned, superior to what I had expected, the whole experience of being at such a rural location but only 15 minutes from the town, Wanganui, was ideal. The farmer and family were away on holiday themselves which was nice as we were totally isolated, just with the animals, but in some ways we had lots of questions to aske them. High on the list was how was the farm viable? We knew they are a British family who emigrated twenty years ago but why choose this exact spot? It is 40 hectares of what does not appear to be prime grazing land. It is very hilly and much of it covered by light pine forest. It is called Tamerton Stud and seems to specialise in miniature Herefords. So you can assume they breed and raise miniature Herefords and certainly there we some there but few enough for us to get to know each one personally. There were also three Aplacas (they were lovely) about 20 or 30 sheep and a dozen or so hens. At some time of the year there are apparently ducks but we didn’t see any. So we decided it was a real bit of the Good Life as opposed to an industrial farm and we felt comfortable with our romantic view of it all.

Alpacas Tamerton Stud

 

We went into town a couple of time for a coffee and human interaction. A small but amiable town, which like many towns here in terms of the shops remind us of Stevenage New Town Centre in the nicest possible way, just the shops with single storey pavement cover over the shop frontages. (I know it paints a horrible picture but just try to imagine Stevenage being a nice laid back place.) I’ll stop there! Anyway in all other aspects other than shop front design NZ towns are nothing like Stevenage. God I wish I hadn’t started this.

Moving on, we have good Kiwi friends, Andrew and Debbie, who you’ll hear more of in future blogs, for now suffice to say Andrew and I worked together for nine years in the UK and we have visited them each time we have been here. Andrew had mentioned to me that his father was born and brought up in Kai Iwi which is just west of Wanganui so on our last day there we decided to take a ride out and find Kai Iwi following a drive up the Wangui River Road.

Wanagui River Road

 

Well we soon found Kai Iwi, lucky we didn’t blink, and I guess we felt a little let down, we saw a couple of the population which cannot be more than 30ish in total but at least we could tell Andrew we had been there and hopefully he would feel good about that. I had seen a sign to Kai Iwi beach so suggested we took a look. We thought is would be a kilometre or two down the narrow twisty road. We passed what looked like the entrance to a campsite and proceeded. I guess time seemed to pass by and we weren’t really thinking until the metalled road turned into a gravel road which meant we kicked up clouds of dust . We were crossing farmland but getting no nearer to the coast which was about 500m to our left. We came to a cross roads (well a cross gravel tracks) with a left hand turn signed something or other beach (not Kai Iwi) and a farmer type bloke hairing up the right hand track on a quad bike. I suggested taking the beach road, Marilyn said let’s turn round, I looked in my mirror and saw a cloud of dust racing up behind us. I suggested we best go straight on and did so. The track go narrower and the dust cloud behind us got closer when I could see it through the cloud I was creating. My instinct was to go faster to try and get clear air but the cloud behind kept with us. This nonsense continued and intensified until we must have been 20km or more from Kai Iwi. Eventually the following cloud tailed off and as he did so we found we were heading for the ocean albeit on top of a cliff. We came up a steep incline to a flat grassy patch on fenced off from the cliff edge. We parked and got out and stared at the magnificent views out to sea and down to the black beaches. Dust cloud arrived and parked alongside us. Out got an elderly bloke with a moustache and wearing a baseball cap. His car was quite beat up. He stepped over the short fence and looked out to sea. I said hi and nodded and that was it. Norman, as I shall call him returned the hi and burst into a conversation that although highly informative may well be still going on. Hence Norman either for Norman Nomates or Norman Knowitall. Ten minutes later with just a few ‘Oks’, wows’ and ‘reallys?’ from me Norm had covered the historic flax industry that existed in this area in olden times, when workers came down the beach from Wanganui on horse back to strip the flax, adjusting the working day to fit the tides. The railway that existed here joining the milk railway, highest climb in the country requiring two engines and travelling from Napier to Wanganui. Then the Maori/British battles that took place in the fields to our left, 23 British soldiers buried there and countless Maoris (they buried the dead at night you know and never marked the graves) I often come across bones over there and bury them again he said. He switched from one topic to another and whenever I got a word in he picked up on the topic. I told him we were off to Taranaki, that’s due an eruption any time now he chirped. Marilyn indicated she was bored stiff and we should leave, I found it difficult to get away but as Mal walked back to the car I sort of indicated I was off. Norm followed, “Ah an Arcadia”, he said “what do you think of it?” “ great” I replied, “sat nav a bit iffy”. And in I got, opened the window and bid Norman goodbye. As we departed I could hear him saying “they build them in South Korea and America, Arcadias in America I think. I’ve got a Mazda myself but use that old banger on these gravel, well crushed sea shell tracks……

 

We retraced our route reminiscing Norman and what was he all about. When we got back to the ‘camp site’ turn we realised it was actually the track to Kai Iwi beach which turned out to be more lively than Kai Iwi itself. We took some photos and then headed back to the peace and tranquillity of the farm.

 

Today, 25^th January 2020, we left Clive, with some sadness, to head West from the Pacific across to Wanganui on the Tasman Sea coast, the South Taranaki Bight to be precise. We are going to spend three nights on a farm stay east of the town on the edge of a national park. The 250km journey was uneventful, started at Bay Coffee for eggs benedict Hastings style (hash browns instead of sourdough) and then off we set. As in the UK travelling East to West is not as straightforward as North to South so we had to sort of head South and then North instead of straight across. The reason, a mountain range, became apparent as we travelled.

 

We were looking forward to a few days on a rural farm but I must admit that the photos we had seen led me to envisage a rustic kind of run down cottage saved by the fact it was in an interesting environment. The people who own the farm, who we have not met yet as they are on holiday (is that allowed for farmers?) emigrated here from England about twenty years ago (so I expect Marilyn will be on my case!!). We decided to come straight to the farm before going to town for supplies assuming we should check out the ‘facilities’. Mind you its only a fifteen minute drive to town.

 

On arrival it was clear which building was ours, we approached with a little trepidation. A friendly ginger cat greeted us, the chooks cackled hello and a couple of magnificent silver guinea fowl ran to greet us. The front door is a ‘stable door’ which immediately gives a farmy impression. Through it is the kitchen and then to my amazement and delight the cottage opened up to us. It is so nice I immediately wished we had more than three nights here. Best I show you the pics.

The Kitchen

Lounge Diner

The Bathroom

 

The Bedroom

The Bedroom Deck and View

Main Deck and BBQ

View from Main deck

I’m sure the pics don’t even do it justice but as I sit here on the deck, a couple of miniature hefers and some alpacas under the tree within a stones throw, the birds singing their evensong and rolling hills and trees in the background, wine in hand, its heaven!

 

So it’s a short blog this evening as I want to enjoy the sundown, I’ll leave you with a pic of our alpacas.

Alpacas

 

Today, Friday 24^th January, we cycled to Napier. That involved crossing the Clive River over a bridge near where we are staying and following the cycle path along the north bank of the Clive. At the estuary the path turns left and follows the coast straight up to Napier, about 11km. The track got busier as we reached Napier.

Napier is known as the ‘Art Deco Capital of the World’. I couldn’t understand why Napier, and indeed Hastings have adopted this style throughout their towns (Kiwi cities), today I found out. In 1931 a massive earthquake destroyed nearly every building in Napier and surrounding towns. Napier was rebuilt, much of it in 1933 -39, Art Nouveau (later to become known as Art Deco) was in vogue throughout Europe and America at the time so Napier was rebuilt Art Deco style throughout and that style has been adhered to until this day. Here is a taste of Napier’s Art Deco.Masonic

Charleston Pharmacy

Emerson Street

Ocean Boulevard

Public trust Office

One of the few buildings that survived the earthquake is the Public Trust Office.

 

Napier is a thriving town with a positive vibe (except on Mondays as mentioned earlier). Although mid summer and school holidays the beach was all but deserted. I was told it is extremely dangerous to swim in the ocean here so perhaps that is the deterrent.Napier Beach

It’s still nice to sit a chill with your dog on the promenade though.

 

Once again the return bike ride was a breeze following consuming some Hawkes Bay wine!

 

We have spent the last three days exploring Hawkes bay from our base in Clive. On Monday evening we ended up driving to Napier, the art deco capital of the world. First impressions was that Napier also closes Monday evenings but we did find a few places open and had an enjoyable evening. Having visited Napier, albeit briefly (we will return) on Tuesday Morning we went South to Hastings, also art deco but not the worlds capital. It is a pleasant enough little town (calls itself a city centre but don’t be fooled. In the centre of town we found ourselves in the information centre or SITE. We didn’t know that’s what it was, we had gone in to buy a hoody as I only brought tees with me and the evenings are sometimes a little cool. Well they were up until I bought a hoody!! Whilst paying the cashier I asked her a couple of things about the town. She proceeded to give loads of information, maps and goodness knows what, it was then it dawned on us the prime purpose of the place. I must say the SITE information places are really helpful.

Our cottage backs onto the Clive River which has a cycle path running alongside it. After lunch in Hastings we returned home and set out to walk along the cycle track. We followed the river east along its south bank, after about a kilometre the river Clive joins the mouth of the Ngaruroro river where they spill into the Pacific ocean. The path follows the river’s inlet running parallel with the ocean front and its black beaches of volcanic. It was a lovely walk, lots of wild birds and wonderful scenery. From the information gathered in Hastings we knew eventually the series of cycle tracks lead to the wineries of Te Awanga. They were a fair lick so far too far to walk that day. Tomorrow we could perhaps cycle there? That evening we practiced being Kiwis and fired up the BBQ for a steak supper.Mouth of the Clive River

 

Cycle Path Clive River Pacific Ocean

 

Next day we borrowed mountain bikes from our hosts and set off down the same path. We decided to head for Elephant Hill winery if we could find it. The cycle paths are excellent, well sighed and not at all hilly. The views of the ocean are magnificent. We stopped at a small hamlet for a coffee, the quality of coffee in NZ is great whatever the establishment may look like. We then arrived at Elephant Hill. It has a grand entrance with a long drive with palm trees on either side. First impressions of the rather magnificent turquoise steel and glass building were that is was up market and perhaps not for a couple of sweaty Brits in tees and shorts on mountain bikes. There were one or two cars in the car park and some folk wandering towards the building. They look more suitably dressed for the place than we did. Never the less there were some bicycle stands so we locked the bikes up and proceeded to the restaurant. It had only opened about 15 minutes before hence not many people. We got a table on a grand terrace next to a vast turquoise water feature. Although it all felt a bit posh we were made to feel welcome, our attire obviously not an issue. We were provided with large sun hats and lotion should we require it. We had decided not to do the winery tour but just sample some with lunch. We’ve done quite a few before and I usually ending losing a day or two as a result. The lunch was delish as was the wine. After lunch we sat on posh sofas in the sun looking out over the vineyards. A lot more people had arrived now, quite a few on bikes so that was comforting. Most of those on bikes were doing the wine tasting. We went to settle our bill and said we would probably come back and buy some wine later in the week. Paul, the maître d over heard and said “you have lunched here therefore I invite you to return at your leisure for a free wine tasting” he then wrote out a personal invite on a card and signed it. Just have to decide which day to lose now! The ride home felt a lot easier!

 

Elephant Hill Winery

Cycling Home

 

 

That evening I returned along the path with my drone to try to capture some shots of the river/ocean.

Black Swans on Clive River (Drone Shot)

 

On Thursday after a late start we went south to Te Mata Peak. Te Mata rises 399m above sea level near Havelock North. At the top it offers fantastic 360 degree views for miles. The hills and those around are made up of erosion proof limestone formed up by being pushed by the Pacific and Australian tectonic plates. They are steeped in Maori history and folklore. On a roll from using my drone the day before I took so shots here. Later in the day I flew it again at a place called Ocean Beach which is a paradise of a beach the sand there more traditional sandy colour not the volcanic black just a few miles north.

Te Mata Peak

Te Mata Peak (Drone)

You are now no doubt thinking he’s not mentioned the sat nav! I thought I’d keep it till last. On our drive into Hastings I noticed a large Holden dealership so on our way out I popped in. My objective to prove for diagnostic purposes if the map SD card was corrupted. The first guy I spoke to, obviously sales, (highlighted hair and a collar and tie,) was really helpful, I learnt from him, the model I have is an Arcadia and that is the only model with a SD card. He passed me on and sent me to pull into a bay outside ‘service and spares where they would help. I pulled up and went in. I told the story to the receptionist who also pleasant and polite but wanting to get on with her nails passed me on to a man sitting at the services and spares desk. Service and spare man, quite old, glasses no tie but a striped white shirt sat there with an expression that said I’ve been here longer than anyone can remember, I know it all but I’m not moving for anyone. He listened to my story, sighed, and phoned someone he could pass me on to. I was beginning to feel like a parcel at an 8 year olds birthday party. Hopefully the music would stop soon. “Jake will come round to your car he said”.

Jake arrived, black work shirt, black shorts work soiled and massive boots, oily hand and black finger nails. He was about 19 years old chirpy and friendly. I told him the story and my diagnostic theory whilst he fiddled with buttons and resets and factory resets, at each step me saying I’ve already done that. Great he said, let’s get a good SD card and try it then. He seemed convinced it would solve the problem. It didn’t. He was disappointed, I was resigned but pleased with the elimination. Well that’s an odd one said Jake. We said our thanks and goodbyes. Keep trying it Jake said sometimes they just come back although I’ve never seen this before! As we drove away Marilyn said I knew it was an Arcadia without that sales bloke telling you – its written on the back!!

Ocean Beach Hawkes Bay